:root{--p-paper: #f5f0e6;--p-paper-light: #fcfaf5;--p-ink: #182326;--p-muted: #626761;--p-gold: #e8b04b;--p-green: #2b5a4d;--p-line: #d7d4c8;--p-display: "Fraunces", Georgia, serif;--p-body: "Work Sans", Arial, sans-serif;--p-mono: "IBM Plex Mono", monospace}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:110px}body.portal{margin:0;background:var(--p-paper);color:var(--p-ink);font-family:var(--p-body);line-height:1.65;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}.portal h1,.portal h2,.portal h3,.portal p,.portal figure{margin:0}.portal a{color:inherit}.portal img{display:block;max-width:100%}.portal ::selection{background:var(--p-gold);color:var(--p-ink)}.portal a,.portal button{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}.portal a:focus-visible,.portal button:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--p-green);outline-offset:5px}.portal-wrap{width:min(1280px,calc(100% - 96px));margin-inline:auto}.portal-section{padding-block:clamp(60px,8vw,112px)}.p-kicker{font-family:var(--p-mono);font-size:11px;font-weight:500;line-height:1.6;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--p-green)}a.p-kicker{text-decoration:none}.p-skip{position:fixed;z-index:500;left:20px;top:-100px;padding:12px 18px;background:var(--p-gold);color:var(--p-ink)}.p-skip:focus{top:12px}.p-header{background:var(--p-paper);border-bottom:1px solid var(--p-line);position:sticky;top:0;z-index:100}.p-header-inner{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:32px;min-height:96px}.p-brand{font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:28px;font-weight:900;letter-spacing:-.055em;line-height:1.2;text-decoration:none;flex-shrink:0}.p-brand em{color:var(--p-green);font-style:normal;font-weight:300}.p-brand span{display:block;font-family:var(--p-mono);font-size:9px;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:.09em;margin-top:5px}.p-nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:30px}.p-nav a{font-size:12px;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;padding-block:8px;position:relative;white-space:nowrap}.p-nav a:after{content:"";position:absolute;height:2px;bottom:0;left:0;right:100%;background:var(--p-green);transition:right .2s}.p-nav a:hover:after,.p-nav a[aria-current=page]:after{right:0}.p-button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:28px;padding:15px 24px;border:1px solid currentColor;border-radius:3px;font-size:13px;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;line-height:1.4;transition:background .2s,color .2s,transform .2s}.p-button:hover{transform:translateY(-2px)}.p-button-dark{background:var(--p-ink);color:var(--p-paper)!important;border-color:var(--p-ink)}.p-button-dark:hover{background:var(--p-green);border-color:var(--p-green)}.p-button-light{background:var(--p-paper);color:var(--p-ink)!important;border-color:var(--p-paper)}.p-button-light:hover{background:var(--p-gold);border-color:var(--p-gold)}.p-text-link{font-size:13px;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid currentColor;padding-bottom:5px}.p-text-link:hover{color:var(--p-green)}.p-hero{position:relative;min-height:min(760px,85svh);display:flex;align-items:flex-end;color:var(--p-paper-light);background:var(--p-ink);isolation:isolate;overflow:hidden}.p-hero-image{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;z-index:-2}.p-hero:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;background:linear-gradient(90deg,#0a1719bd,#0a17191f),linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(10,23,25,.58),transparent 70%)}.p-hero-content{position:relative;z-index:1;padding-block:clamp(60px,8vw,100px)}.portal .p-hero .portal-wrap.p-hero-content{width:min(1280px,calc(100% - 96px))}.p-hero .p-kicker{color:var(--p-gold);margin-bottom:22px}.p-hero-title{max-width:1000px;font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:clamp(54px,7.6vw,110px);line-height:1.03;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:-.045em;text-wrap:balance}.p-hero-title em{font-weight:300;color:var(--p-gold)}.p-hero-lead{max-width:600px;font-size:clamp(16px,1.6vw,20px);margin-top:26px!important;color:#e9e6dc;line-height:1.7}.p-hero-actions{display:flex;gap:15px;align-items:center;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:32px}.p-breadcrumbs{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:10px;font-family:var(--p-mono);font-size:11px;margin-bottom:32px;color:var(--p-muted)}.p-breadcrumbs a{text-decoration:none}.p-hero .p-breadcrumbs{color:#e9e6dc}.p-section-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:32px;margin-bottom:34px}.p-section-title{font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:clamp(34px,4vw,54px);font-weight:600;line-height:1.1;letter-spacing:-.035em;text-wrap:balance;margin-top:12px!important}.p-section-title em{font-weight:300}.p-section-top{border-top:1px solid var(--p-line)}.p-page-heading{padding-block:clamp(58px,7vw,100px) clamp(42px,5vw,76px)}.p-page-heading h1{margin-top:23px;font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:clamp(46px,6.2vw,84px);font-weight:600;line-height:1.08;letter-spacing:-.04em;text-wrap:balance;max-width:1100px}.p-page-heading h1 em{font-weight:300;color:var(--p-green)}.p-lead{margin-top:25px!important;font-size:clamp(16px,1.7vw,20px);max-width:720px;line-height:1.75;color:var(--p-muted)}.p-post-grid,.p-trip-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:30px}.p-post-card{background:var(--p-paper-light);border:1px solid var(--p-line);border-radius:6px;overflow:hidden;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.p-post-card-image{display:block;aspect-ratio:3/2;overflow:hidden}.p-post-card-image img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .4s}.p-post-card:hover .p-post-card-image img{transform:scale(1.025)}.p-post-card-body{padding:clamp(24px,3vw,36px);display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start;flex:1}.p-post-card h3{font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:clamp(28px,3vw,36px);font-weight:600;letter-spacing:-.025em;line-height:1.15;margin-top:14px}.p-post-card h3 a{text-decoration:none}.p-post-card h3 a:hover{color:var(--p-green)}.p-post-card h3+p{font-size:14px;color:var(--p-muted);margin-top:16px;margin-bottom:28px;line-height:1.8}.p-post-card-meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:16px;justify-content:space-between;width:100%;font-size:11px;margin-top:auto;color:var(--p-muted)}.p-post-card-meta a{color:var(--p-green);font-weight:600;text-decoration:none}.p-trip-card{position:relative;overflow:hidden;border-radius:6px;background:var(--p-ink);color:var(--p-paper-light);text-decoration:none}.p-trip-card img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover}.p-trip-card h3{font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:34px;line-height:1.15}.p-empty{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.6fr 1.4fr;align-items:start;gap:40px;padding:clamp(30px,5vw,70px);background:#ebe8dd;border:1px solid var(--p-line);border-radius:6px}.p-empty>:only-child{grid-column:1 / -1}.p-empty-mark{font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:clamp(90px,14vw,180px);font-weight:300;color:var(--p-green);line-height:1}.p-empty h2{font-family:var(--p-display);font-weight:300;font-size:clamp(34px,4vw,56px);line-height:1.1;letter-spacing:-.025em;margin-top:18px}.p-empty h2+p{max-width:570px;margin-top:22px;font-size:15px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--p-muted)}.p-empty .p-button,.p-empty .p-text-link{margin-top:28px}.p-article-heading{max-width:1060px}.p-article-meta{display:flex;gap:20px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:25px;font-size:12px;color:var(--p-muted)}.p-article-meta a{font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;color:var(--p-green)}.p-tags{list-style:none;padding:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:22px 0 0}.p-tags li{font-family:var(--p-mono);font-size:10px;padding:4px 10px;border:1px solid var(--p-line);border-radius:2px}.p-article-cover img{width:100%;max-height:640px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:4px}.p-prose{width:min(720px,calc(100% - 48px));margin:60px auto;font-size:18px;line-height:1.9}.p-prose p+p{margin-top:25px}.p-prose h2{font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:clamp(30px,4vw,40px);letter-spacing:-.025em;line-height:1.2;margin:50px 0 20px;font-weight:600}.p-prose h3{font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:27px;line-height:1.2;margin:35px 0 18px}.p-prose a{color:var(--p-green);text-decoration-color:var(--p-line);text-underline-offset:4px}.p-prose a:hover{text-decoration-color:var(--p-green)}.p-prose blockquote{margin:35px 0;padding:0 0 0 25px;border-left:2px solid var(--p-green);font-family:var(--p-display);font-size:27px;line-height:1.5}.p-prose ul,.p-prose ol{padding-left:25px}.p-prose li+li{margin-top:10px}.p-prose img{margin-block:30px;border-radius:3px;height:auto}.p-prose hr{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--p-line);margin-block:40px}.p-article-back{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:20px;justify-content:space-between;border-top:1px solid var(--p-line);padding-top:28px;font-size:13px}.p-gallery{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:28px;margin-top:35px}.p-gallery img{width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;border-radius:4px}.p-gallery figcaption{font-size:12px;margin-top:12px;color:var(--p-muted)}.p-footer{background:var(--p-ink);color:var(--p-paper);padding-block:52px}.p-footer-inner{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:40px}.p-footer .p-brand em{color:var(--p-gold)}.p-footer p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.8;color:#b7bdb4}.p-footer nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:20px;max-width:340px}.p-footer nav a{font-size:11px;text-decoration:none;color:#d1d2c8}.p-footer nav a:hover{color:var(--p-gold)}@media(min-width:1440px){.p-hero{min-height:800px}}@media(max-width:860px){.portal-wrap,.portal .p-hero .portal-wrap.p-hero-content{width:calc(100% - 48px)}.p-header-inner{min-height:84px;gap:20px}.p-brand{font-size:24px}.p-nav{gap:18px}.p-nav a{font-size:11px}.p-hero{min-height:670px}.p-hero-title{font-size:clamp(48px,8.5vw,72px)}.p-hero:after{background:linear-gradient(0deg,#0a1719d9,#0a171933)}.p-footer-inner{flex-wrap:wrap}.p-footer nav{max-width:none;width:100%}}@media(max-width:600px){html{scroll-padding-top:125px}.portal-wrap,.portal .p-hero .portal-wrap.p-hero-content{width:calc(100% - 40px)}.p-header-inner{flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;gap:14px;padding-block:16px 13px}.p-brand{font-size:26px}.p-header .p-brand span{display:none}.p-nav{flex-basis:100%;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px}.p-nav a{font-size:10px;padding-block:4px}.p-hero{min-height:650px}.p-hero-content{padding-block:64px}.p-hero-title{font-size:clamp(44px,11vw,62px)}.p-hero-lead{font-size:16px}.p-hero-actions{align-items:stretch;gap:12px}.p-button{padding:14px 18px;gap:18px}.p-section-head{display:block}.p-section-head .p-text-link{display:inline-block;margin-top:24px}.p-post-grid,.p-trip-grid,.p-gallery{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:20px}.p-empty{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:18px;padding:28px}.p-empty-mark{font-size:72px}.p-empty h2{margin-top:14px}.p-prose{width:calc(100% - 40px);font-size:16px;margin-block:42px}.p-footer-inner{gap:28px;align-items:flex-start}.p-footer p{width:100%}.p-kicker{font-size:10px}.p-page-heading h1{font-size:clamp(40px,10.5vw,60px)}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.portal *,.portal *:before,.portal *:after{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}
